INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR SUPRA MKIII 13 INCH WILWOOD FRONT BRAKE
KIT.
When you receive your kit open it to inspect the contents of the kit.
In the inside the main box you should find two boxes, inside the top
box you should have 3 Wilwood boxes, 2 Caliper boxes and 1 Brake Pad
box. Each caliper box contains a complete set of left components or
right components.
The left caliper bracket is packaged with the left caliper. The right
caliper bracket is packaged with the right caliper.
Inside each Caliper box should be a Caliper a Brake line, and a
Caliper bracket. Attached to each Brake line should be the Brake line
Adapter, and a Brake line Clamp. Attached to each Caliper Adapter
Bracket should be all the required fasteners to attach the caliper
bracket to the Spindle/Up-right and all the fasteners to attach the
calipers to the bracket.
All of the fasteners installed on the caliper
bracket are installed in the sequence they will be installed on the
vehicle. DO NOT REMOVE THEM UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO INSTALL THEM ON
THE VEHICLE
Here are all the parts for the complete front 13 inch Wilwood front
brake kit.
The first order of business is to remove the front wheels. If you
need any assistance on where to lift from or where to place the jack
stands refer to the TSRM. If you were ever going to clean detail the
fenderwell this would be the time to do it. If you plan to detail the
fenderwell area after the kit is installed I would recommend removing
the caliper from the spindle and placing it in a garbage/ziplock bag
and zip tieing it out of the way. Also remove the rotor and set
aside.
Do not use Castrol Superclean in the purple bottle, it has a chemical
that attacks open poor aluminum.
Also don't use Eagle 1 mag cleaner made for open pore aluminum (like
Centerline wheels).
Once you have removed the wheels and supported the vehicle properly it
should look like this.
Remove the brake from the spindle and let it hang from the brake line.
You won't break the brake line apart until you have almost all of the
parts installed on each corner you are replacing.
Remove the front rotor hat from the spindle, notice the 2 threaded
holes on the stock rotor hat these are used to help remove the rotor
from the hub.
Refer to the TSRM if your not familiar with this procedure.
DO NOT POUND OR STRIKE THE WHEEL MOUNTING SURFACE
EVER.
Once the rotor and caliper have been removed you have some cleaning to
do.
Use a wire brush or any means possible to remove any rust or scale
from the surface that the new rotor hat will mount to. This cleaning
is critical to a true running rotor. I use a wire brush on a die
grinder.
MAKE SURE TO USE SAFETY GLASSES A FACE SHIELD AND LEATHER
GLOVES
My bare hand is only holding the tool for
photographic purposes. If you don't have experience using these tools
get someone that does, or pay a professional to install these brakes.
Leaving the lug nuts installed is a good way to insure you don't
damage the threads during this operation.
After the mounting surface and the outside diameter of hub mounting
surface is clean it should look like this.
Remember the rotor hat is hubcentric cleaning that hub/center outside
diameter is critical to runout.
THIS STEP IS OPTIONAL YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE OR
OPEN UP THE WHEEL BEARINGS TO REMOVE THE DUST COVER. SLIDE DOWN PAST
THE NEXT 4 PHOTOS TO SEE OUR RECOMMENDED METHOD.
Next you will remove the rotor dust cover. There are several ways to
do this I will cover a few of them The most difficult and potentially
damaging (to the wheel bearings) is to remove the nut for the hub on
the back (in board) side of the spindle. This is the riskiest option,
you risk getting dirt in the bearings, you risk damaging the threads,
and you risk over or under torqueing the bearings. It is an option
but I do not recommend it.
The options I DO recommend will depend on if you have ABS or not. If
you have ABS I recommend trimming only the outer dust shield off of
the dust cover assembly ( I say assembly because it is multiple pieces
welded together). You can use common aviation tin snips. Make sure
to finish the edges with a file to remove any sharp edges and burrs
(prime and paint as necessary). The photo below shows a non ABS
spindle. Notice you can see the fasteners holding the dust cover to
the spindle.
On an ABS vehicle, the ABS trigger ring obscures these fasteners and
any attempt to gain access to these fasteners using tin/aviation snips
risks damaging that trigger ring.
Here is an ABS spindle after removal of the dust cover. You can trim
it right down to the outside diameter
On a non ABS vehicle I recommend loosening these fasteners and trimming
a
portion of the center out so that the complete dust cover can be
removed.
This will avoid tampering with a perfectly good wheel bearing assembly.
In the first photos I snip the inner ring on each side of the fasteners
(to
provide clearance for the wrench to gain access to the head of the
bolts).
Next I use a drift or punch to knock back the inner ring of the dust
cover
(in front of the fasteners only). 11, 12
Next I loosen and remove the fasteners holding the dust cover on.
13,14,
Once the dust cover is free I use the snips once again to make a big
opening
in the center diameter to slide the dust cover off of the spindle.
I snip high and low, and the cover comes right off. 15,16,
Next you will need to clean and wire brush the mounting surfaces of the
Toyota caliper ears. 17,18
I recommend cleaning the whole spindle but if your pressed for time at
least
make sure you clean these 3 areas. Again if your not familiar or not
comfortable using these tools please have a professional perform this
installation. This portion of the casting interferes slightly with the
installation of your new brake caliper. You will need to clearance
this
portion of the casting. 19,20
The removal of material required is so slight that a basic hand file
will do
the trick.
Below I will show many other tools that can be used for the job.
Please, if
your not comfortable with any portion of this install please have a
professional do it.
Die grinder ,21
Soft disc or flapper wheel, 22, 23
Flapper wheel on a die grinder 24
Barrel sander on a die grinder 25
Stone on a die grinder 26
Carbide burr 27
Scotch lock/quik lock sanding disc. 28
I ended up using a Die Grinder wheel 29
The die grinder is one of my favorite tools I am very comfortable with
it.
Here is how it should look when your finished. You do
not need to remove a ton of material as you can see. You might need to
remove some of the "point"of this portion of the casting to
make room for the flat washer up against the caliper. 30, 31
Test fit your parts several times to get a good idea of the minimum
material
you need to remove to make the install of the calipers go smoothly.
Remember the fasteners on the caliper brackets are installed in the
order
they are installed.
If you haven't removed the caliper brackets from their respective boxes
they
will be installed with the proper left and right caliper. Identify the
left
and right caliper brackets and place them at their respective corners.
An
easy way to identify the brackets is to hold them like a pistol the
bottom
hole will not have a threaded insert and the top or forwards hole will.
The
threaded inserts go outboard on the vehicle. The caliper bracket in
the
photo below is for the front right caliper. 32
Remove all the fasteners from one caliper bracket, except the 12mm
Socket
head cap screws (or allen bolt). The metric fasteners have a
silver/bright
zinc plated nut and washer. The 12 mm allen bolt head should have a
flat
washer between it and the aluminum caliper bracket. This is a standard
flat
washer as shown in the picture above. Notice the order of the
fasteners
below. The lock washer goes against the cast Toyota caliper ear
followed by
the 12mm nut.
Torque these fasteners to Toyota factory specifications. It might be
necessary to hold the allen head bolt still while torqueing the inside
nut.
DO NOT TORQUE THE ALLEN HEAD BOLT WHILE HOLDING THE NUT IN PLACE. 33
While installing the caliper bracket apply pressure outward (radially),
notice the tip of my finger prying outward. This caliper bracket was
designed to maintain the maximum pad rotor interface with the closest
of
build tolerances. 34
Below is the order the fasteners should be installed fastening the
caliper
to the caliper bracket.
Take care to NEVER install a split locking washer against any aluminum
part.
35
Sometimes I ship the kit with a precision shim washer. If you need to
shim
the caliper inboard, that washer will be installed between the caliper
and
the caliper bracket. If you need to shim the caliper outboard you need
to
place that shim between the caliper bracket and the Toyota caliper
ears.
Next you will slide the Rotor hat on the hub. Make sure there are no
dings,
imperfections, rust, or dirt in between the rotor hat and the mounting
surface. This will surely affect the lateral runout. Inspect and
clean
these surfaces as necessary.
[COLOR="Red"]MAKE SURE TO CLEAN BRAKEING SURFACES WITH BRAKE CLEANER.
[/COLOR] The rotors are shipped with oil on them to inhibit rust, you
do not
want this oil on your pads. Clean as best as possible but the rest of
the
oils will burn off during the bedding process.
Make sure to install the rotors on the proper sides. A rotor is a
centrifugal pump, they can only be run one direction or they will
stall. If
you run the rotors backwards it won't pump air from the hub to the
wheel.
Chances are that you would only notice a problem if you were racing
them but
go ahead and install them on the proper corners. The front rotors have
an
arrow on the outside that makes it unmistakable. 36
With the rotor installed use 2-3 lug nuts to secure the rotor against
the
hub mounting surface. This will keep the rotor true while you bleed
the
brakes and make sliding the caliper over the rotor easier.
Install the brake pads in each caliper, they are the same pad in all
four
positions and do not have a front/back or inboard/outboard designation.
Install the Brake line fitting (shown below) in the caliper using
Teflon
tape. Take care to not let the Teflon tape overlap the installed
threads
when installed "inside" the caliper. Do not torque this adapter into
the
caliper until it stops. This is an NPT thread with a slight taper and
is
designed to seal after approximately half of the available threads are
engaged. If you need to ask me how tight to make this fitting you
should
pay a professional to install this kit. 37,38
Next you can mount the caliper on the bracket install the fasteners in
the
caliper snugly, make sure the 3 lugnuts are holding the rotor to the
mounting surface. Check that there isn't any undue resistance to
rotating
the rotor thru the pads. Torque the caliper mounting bolts to factory
Toyota specs.
Here you can do one of two things.
1. Install the brake line at the body/chassis and caliper.
2. Move on to the next side and complete all the same steps up to this
point
I recommend moving on to the other side and complete all the same steps
up
to this same point.
Next you will break the existing brake line loose and install it, in
place
of the factory brake line. Again if you need to ask how this is done,
you
should pay a professional to install this kit. Notice that if you
remove the
factory Toyota cir clips (e clips) from the factory brake line, you can
install them in the new brake line to secure it in the factory
location. In
some cases you will need to install both cir clips in the same groove
to
maintain the stock brake line retention to properly secure the brake
line.
You can locate the new line off of the bottom of the short rubber hose
as in
the photo on the left or you can install it directly to the hardline
and run
it directly to the caliper. In the scenario on the right you do not use
the
clamp to route the brake line forward to the factory brake line
clamping
location. 39, 40
I have included a brake line retainer if you want to maintain the
factory
brake line routing shown in the photo
below. You can not use this routing and attach directly to the
hardline.
In either case you NEED to install 2 of the factory cir clips as shown
in
the photo above on the left. 42
Once the brake lines are installed the only other unique thing about
bleeding these calipers is the fact that there are 2 channels per
caliper.
Bleed the inboard channel first. Then bleed the outboard channel, then
repeat one more time. I use a clear piece of vinyl/nylon hose (easy to
find
at Home Depot) with an inside diameter that will fit snugly on the
bleeder
and rout it into an empty clear container.
NOTICE THE BLEED SCREW USES A ¼ INCH WRENCH!!!! TREAT IT
AS
SUCH.
Hold your 1/4 inch wrench half way up with 3 fingers. It is very easy
to
over-torque or break this bleeder treat it gently!!!
Even if you are not installing the Rear Big Brake Kit it is a good time
to
flush the old fluid out and bleed the rears also.
Once you are confident you have all of the brakes completely bled,
install
your wheels and test the brake pedal before you roll 1 foot. If the
pedal
height or firmness is inconsistent, remove the wheels and look for
leaks.
Treat the first test drive with the utmost care. Make sure the brakes
work
satisfactorily before you perform the bedding procedure.
After the first 100-200 miles remove the wheels and check all fittings
for
leaks and check all fasteners for signs of loosening, or improper
torque.
After the bed in procedure it is common to see a ring of oil (on the
inside
of the wheel and caliper bridge) that has been heated and flung out of
the
rotor vents. This is normal and will wash off with soap and water.
The Rotors are cast iron and not plated I have had many customers paint
the
non braking surfaces if they were concerned with superficial rusting.
I
recommend leaving the rotor hats installed and taping them off so as
not to
disturb the mounting surface between the rotor and the rotor hat.
Thank you again for your interest in our products. Please contact us
if you
have any questions about the installation and use of our products.
[email]ArizonaPerformance@cox.net[/email]
Thanks.
Andrew Zimmerle
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